Waiting for the Weather Window
Our climbers are all resting at Base Camp and at lower altitudes waiting for their “Weather Window” to make their summit attempt. We’ve got a great meteorologist who is sending us detailed weather reports daily so that we can select the best time to make our attempt.
From Todd: I have been sitting on the glacier for about a week now, going a little stir crazy. My teammates went down to recovery at a lower altitude, I stayed with the cook. We will be making our summit bid soon. The Sherpas will be fixing the lines to the summit and hopefully the winds will die down. It will take about a week to get to the top and down. Day One: EBC to Camp 2 will take about 8-10 hrs. Day Two: rest. Day Three: Camp 2 up Lhotse to Camp 3. We will then go on oxygen 1L to sleep and 2 L for climbing. Day Four: Camp 3 traverse Lhotse and the Geneva Spur to Camp 4, the South Col (26,000ft), 6-8hrs. We will be in the “Death Zone” from here on. The body does not get enough O2 to sustain life so it metabolizes itself. We will rest here till about 10-11pm and then take off for summit. Day Five: South Col to Summit and back down to Camp 2 15-20hrs. I’ll be tired. Day Six: Camp 2 to EBC!
Photos from Todd:
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- My home for past month, it’s so warm and spacious.
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- The knives strapped to your feet don’t help.
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- My least favorite crevasse! The ladder bounces, you have to step up where they are tied together, and the ropes are not taut.
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- Looks like the Sherpas had Toru make a ladder! Ha ha!
